Destination: Railay Beach, Krabi

From Phuket, we headed towards Krabi.  This was a place I had wanted to visit since we arrived in Thailand and a friend said, “If you don’t go anywhere else, go to Railay Beach in Krabi.”  I keep thinking that we’ve seen so many amazing places in Thailand, it can’t get any more fabulous.  Well, the drive to Krabi was spectacular.  The tall limestone structures were breathtaking. 

Boarding the long tail boats to Railay Beach

As far as we knew, we were on our way to Railay Beach.  We had read about a place to stay and put the address into David’s iPhone.  We followed the directions down an unpaved road and ended up at a little Thai resort called Arawan instead.  We discovered there that you can only reach Railay Beach by boat.  There must have been some kind of glitch in the GPS.  But it ended up a great mistake as we stayed at Arawan and met some lovely people.  We were even invited to dinner by the owner, as he had some friends visiting from Federal Way in Washington and he wanted us to meet.  It ends up that they own two Thai restaurants – one called Wild Orchid in Tacoma.  So if you are in the Tacoma area and have a hankering for some Thai food, please check it out.

We spent a couple of days at Arawan before we headed to Railay Beach.  From a pier not far from the resort, we took a long tail boat to Railay Beach. We had to walk out into the surf and then climb into the long tail boat.  This was challenging for me, but I persevered and was able to board with minimal embarrassment and no popped blood vessels in my eye. 

David on the West Side of Railay Beach

Railay Beach has two sides.  The east side has a view of mangroves.  It’s not the most beautiful sight, but it is pretty.  After a short 5 minute walk through the middle of the island, you arrive at the west side.  As we passed through the trees to the beach, it seriously took our breath away.  Again, these huge limestone cliffs hovered overhead on the left and the right with the beach inbetween.  We had lunch at a cute little café right on the beach.  The beauty of Thailand overwhelmed us.

Our few days at Railay Beach were lazy and restful.  We would rise late, grab some brekkies, walk to the west side to lie on the beach, read, eat, swim, read, walk the beach and eat some more.  This is definitely a place that we want to revisit with Amanda and Caryn.   

Destination: Phuket

The view of Kata Beach from Aspasia

Our next adventure would end up a 14-day journey to several islands and beaches.  Our first planned stop was Phuket.  It was such an amazing drive from Bangkok to Phuket.  The landscape was beautiful.  We stopped along the highway on several occasions to purchase fruit or roasted chicken from a stall on the side of the road.  We got a kick out of the response of the vendors each time we pulled over to make a purchase.  They would approach our vehicle.  I would roll down the window.  They would see that we were farangs.  They would giggle and then walk away.  Our take on this was that they didn’t know what to do because they didn’t speak English.  Luckily, David and I know enough Thai to get into trouble, so we were usually able to communicate what we wanted.  :0)

Halfway to Phuket, we happened across the amazing Pun Ya Ban Waterfall.  We have to say that it is the most spectacular waterfall we’ve come across so far in Thailand. It was located close to Ranong, where we ended up staying the night.   Ranong is known for its hot springs.  We checked into a local hotel.  We love finding establishments like this where there aren’t many westerners and generally the price is usually really good.   We ended up finding a great local restaurant for dinner and then had a good night’s sleep before resuming our journey to Phuket. 

Pun Ya Ban Waterfall near Ranong

The next day, we continued our drive.  All along the way, we saw signs to different beaches.  We decided to turn down one road and ended up at Pra Pat Beach.  It reminded us a lot of some of the beaches we have frequented near Newcastle in Australia.  It was a surf beach and there were small crab everywhere. The surf would come in and the little crabs would scurry as fast as they could across the sand.   

A couple of hours later, we arrived in Phuket.  We were surprised at the size of it.  There was the busy area of Patong, where tons of tourists explored.  We stayed up on a hill overlooking the ocean.   At the bottom of the hill was Kata Beach, a surf beach.  Our time in Phuket was wonderful, mostly because we stayed in a lovely place with a qualified and friendly staff.  We had several yummy meals, enjoyed a couple’s massage, took drives around the island and stopped at Karon Viewpoint.  Would we come back to Phuket?  Probably because we didn’t take the opportunity to sea kayak around James Bond Island this time around.  But that will be another adventure.

Destination: Koh Chang

Khlong Phlu Waterfall

Just a four hour drive and a car ferry ride from Bangkok, we arrived on Koh Chang.  “Koh” in Thai means island and “Chang” means elephant. It was truly beautiful there.  David loves ferries, so the car ferry ride from the mainland to Koh Chang was right up his alley.  We stayed at a nice bungalow near the beach. The weather cooperated half of our stay.  On the rainy days, we drove around the island, checking out the various viewpoints.  It was breathtaking. There was a road that went almost all the way around the island.  It would climb very high and then drop really low - very dramatic.  In our minds, we think our little Soluna is a 4-wheel drive so we often drove down roads that led to who knows where and I think we were lucky to get ack. We had to really pay special attention as the rain, at times, was coming down so fast and hard that parts of some roads were flooded.  The drives were quite adventuresome! 

On one of the drier days, we took a hike to Khlong Phlu Waterfall.  David encouraged me to try the mile hike each way.  It was rugged terrain - no paved paths here.  One would think that at the end of such a hike, I would have experienced sore legs, calves, etc.  Not me!  I had sore arms as I must have been tensing them as I grabbed for branches, rocks and David's hand along the way.  I even popped a blood vessel in my eye from the stress.  Ahhh, but the view was well worth the hike.  

View on a road trip around the island

Always at the top of our list when exploring is where/what our next meal will be, whether it be street food or a restaurant.  Italian food was EVERYWHERE – not necessarily GOOD Italian food, however.  We used Trip Advisor and a traveling magazine to choose our dining options, but everywhere we went, the establishment had either gone out of business or was closed for the season, since this is the rainy or “green” season.  We did manage to find a cute little German bakery, good pizza and of course, yummy Thai food.  One of the highlights of our stay on Koh Chang was having dinner on the beach.  We stopped at a restaurant in one of the little villages and ended up walking through the restaurant directly to the beach.  We had some Thai dishes but we were most impressed with the 10-inch long prawn that they BBQed for us.  Yummy!  While on the beach, David also experienced something climbing on his back.  It was some sort of many-legged insect, hairy and about 4 inches long.  We think it might have been dangerous since the waiter got a stick and carefully removed it from David's back and gingerly took it away somewhere - we don't know where.  All in all, we really liked the feel of the island with its little villages every few kilometers.   It was a beautiful island, with beautiful views and beautiful people!

Koh Chang Coastline

The Summer of Beaches, Islands and Mountains

Being new on the international school scene, the end of the school year took me by surprise.  Saying goodbye to newly made friends was so difficult for me.   I don’t like goodbyes and I had to say goodbye to a good number of people who I had really enjoyed getting to know.  Also, most of my colleagues were heading back to their home countries or some exotic places around the world.  David and I decided that this summer would be the best time to explore Thailand.  In our 25 years of marriage, we have never both had time in the summer to just take off and see where the road took us.  In May, we purchased an economical car, created our wish list of destinations (to be referred to from this point on as “The Summer of Beaches, Islands and Mountains”) and started researching.

What you need to know about this time of year in Thailand:  Between May and September/October, Thais experience the rainy or “green” season.  That means that one can expect rain anywhere from a huge downpour/wind storm all day, for just an hour, or no rain at all.  Rain or not, it is generally still hot and humid.  This reminds me of a conversation I had with an Aussie 4^th grader early last year. Like me, it was his first year living in Thailand.  We were talking about the seasons and he asked, “When will it be winter?”  I said, “Honey, there really isn’t a winter here.  There are three seasons:  the hot season, the rainy season and the cold season.  But it really isn’t cold during the cold season.”  His mouth dropped open and his face scrunched and he said, “You mean it’s ALWAYS going to be this hot?”  It was hilarious.  The good news is that it IS hot here.  I have never had to wear a down jacket (although we have seen some Thais wear down jackets), a sweater or closed toed shoes.  If I didn’t have to dress up for school, I could live in shorts and capris.  I can swim outside almost every day of the year.  I have never had to turn on the heater in the car.  In fact, there are no heaters in the cars here.  And when it does storm, it is AMAZING!  Huge storms with lightning, thunder, gale winds that knock planters over, etc.  My friend Susan says that on days like that, she cranks up the air con, they put on some winter clothing and eat chili for dinner.  As long as they don’t go outside, it seems like winter to them.  Most people do not travel through Thailand at this time of year because of the weather.  However, this can be the perfect time for visitors who are traveling on a budget because hotels/resorts WANT YOUR BUSINESS!  So starts the first of many road trips during The Summer of Beaches, Islands and Mountains.

The next few posts will be dedicated to educating you on some of the most beautiful places to visit in Thailand.  If you do not come away with an urge to travel this way, you are probably dead.  Ha! 

Six Weeks of FUN, FUN, FUN!

Amanda, Matt & Allie in Ayuttiah

March and April were a whirlwind.  Within 6 weeks, we had a total of 11 visitors from all over.  Jan and Gregg (our brother and sister-in-law) arrived in early March.   It was great to have some time with both of them in our new stomping ground, even though both Jan and Gregg have been to Thailand many times before.  We had several adventures like when we tried to get into a rooftop bar with VERY casual clothes on.  There was also the time when, after waiting an hour in a taxi line, the taxi driver wouldn’t turn his meter on and insisted we pay 4x the price of a metered ride to a nice bar/restaurant across town.  Gregg used his “powers” of persuasion and we ended up at our destination.  Jan reconnected with her old tailor and found some great shopping spots, took a day trip to Ayuttiah with David, and fell in love with our favorite restaurant, Chai.  She also met up with some friends from Hong Kong who are now teaching at ISB.

All six young women at Monkey Mountain

A couple of days after Jan left, the group of six lovely ladies arrived.  This group consisted of Amanda and Allie (a good friend since club volleyball days) and Caryn with Nat, Sarah and Becky (all SOU teammates).  Our apartment was ROCKIN’!  We did so much and the girls were open to trying all different foods, learning as much about the culture as they could in a short time span and speaking as much Thai as possible.  David started their Thailand adventure by taking them to Cha’am to hang out at the beach and explore Hua Hin and the infamous Monkey Mountain (see previous blog post…).  We took a trip to Ayuttiah, the once capital of Thailand. At this point, Matt, our nephew, joined the party.  David was glad to have some additional testosterone in the place.  We saw some beautiful wats, took a long tail boat down the river, were drenched by an elephant and had tasty morsels at the floating market.  We then went to Kanchanaburri (home of the Bridge on the River Kwai) and Sai Yok.  Ken, Matt’s dad and David’s brother, flew in to join the group.  We stayed in a floating hotel on the river.  We hiked Erawan Falls, one of the most beautiful falls areas in Thailand.  Did I mention that we also rented a 10-passenger van for all of our travels.  We nicknamed it the “party van.”  In between all of these trips, the girls managed to eat heaps of Thai food, ride motorcycle taxis and tuk tuks, help David coach some middle school volleyball players (the ISB players are still talking about the VB visiting coaches), shop at Chattachuk market, hit an “ice bar” and rooftop bar in downtown Bangkok, have massages, manicures and pedicures, and drink too many “buckets’ on Kao San Road.  It was such a great time and a time that we will never forget.  We even hear that Becky plans to come back next summer!!!

A few days after they all left, my friend Shannon arrived.  She was in Bangkok to present at the NESA conference, as well as work with our coaches at ISB.  We had a fun week and learned a lot from her visit.  We ended her time here by heading to Koh Samet, a beautiful beach a few hours from here.  We hung out on the beach, had a lot of tasty beverages and continuously pinched ourselves that we were truly in a beautiful paradise.  Hopefully, Shannon will make several more trips this way to work with us!

Although this time was crazier than crazy, we wouldn’t have changed it for the world.  

Right before we were drenched by an elephant in Ayuttiah

The LAST Visa Run to Vientiane, Laos

I know that many of you have been waiting with bated breath for the conclusion of the Visa Drama.  Finally, here is the last chapter:

The last, and I might add successful, visa trip was to Vientiane, Laos.  David had researched the train system.  We decided to book the overnight sleeper train to Nong Khai, the end of the Thai train line.  You have to love public transportation!

Anousavari Monument

Our train departed Lak Si around 8:00 p.m.  We grabbed some cart food and snacks and headed to our seats to play a little cribbage (I think I won!).  Within the hour, dinner and drinks were offered and an attendant arrived to make up our bunks.  The sleeping arrangements consisted of two bunks which were curtained off to give privacy.  David slept on the top bunk and me on the bottom.  We hit the hay and 7 hours later, we were awakened by the attendant to make up the bunks and serve us some brekkies.

Once we arrived at the train station at Nong Khai, we took another train across the Friendship Bridge into Thanaleng, near Vientiane, our destination.  This train had a schedule – but not really.  It left whenever the passengers from the Thai train arrived and everyone cleared immigration. 

We had a great time in Vientiane.  Besides spending several hours at the Thai Embassy, we spent a few days exploring the city. It was interesting to hear a mixture of both Thai and French speaking people.  Much of the architecture reflected the French influence, as did many of the restaurants.  We were anxious to try this $2.00 French lunch mentioned in Lonely Planet (we are always looking for a good deal).  To our delight, we had a fabulous French meal for $2.00 each. 

Our Favorite French Restaurant

Sights included Anousavari Monument, a Thai version of the Arc de Triomphe.  It was beautiful.  We also walked the night market, tried some delicacies,had  the best smoothie either of us has ever had, roti and some of the ABSOLUTE best beer we’ve had in Southeast Asia – Beer Lao.  (okay, not exactly a micro-brew, but darn close)

We left Laos with an admiration of the country and a longing to return this summer, this time to Luang Prabang.  And most importantly, after several attempts, David left Laos with a valid visa!

David’s footnote:  The visa drama was actually not over.  I had to now spend ½ day with a driver going to the visa office in Nonthaburi district (1-1/2 hours away) where money was paid, smiles and wais given and then I had a multiple re-entry through October (same as Tammy).  And BTW:  I’m sure I won at cribbage! 

THE Best Cart Foods

Cart Snacks We Enjoy
Thailand is full of restaurants.  However, we enjoy a regular snacking from the many carts we find along the road anywhere and everywhere.  Most of the items on this list can be bought for 20 baht or less (approximately 60 cents). 

·      Corn:  corn kernels tossed in butter, sugar and salt.  You can also buy it boiled or roasted on the cob.

·      Waffles:  4 inch diameter waffles.  You choose whether the batter includes maple, almond, sea salt & sesame and more (no syrup)

·      Satay:  mostly gai (chicken) or moo (pork)

·      Fruit:  bags of saparod (pineapple), tang mo (watermelon), mamuang see kiew (green mango w/salt, sugar and spice dip), farang (guava)

·      Ice cream:  with a variety of toppings including coconut, nuts, a variety of gelatinous squiggly things, sweetened condensed milk, fruity stuff.

·      Roti: crepe like pancake with anything put inside.  Folded into a square.  We like gluay (banana) and nutella.  Topped with sweetened condensed milk.

·      Kow Niow Mamuang (mango and sticky rice – seasonal.  We are craving it ALWAYS! 

·      Mien kam:  little bundles of dried shrimp, lime, ginger, onion, peanuts, cilantro/ parsley, hot peppers, toasted coconut and secret sauce wrapped up into a betel leaf.  A delightful mouthful!

·      Coke in a bag:  forget the can or bottle of coke.  We enjoy coke in a plastic bag filled with ice and a straw.

·      Chicken – any part.  We buy it roasted whole.  You can get chicken knuckles, but lots of cartillage.

·      Khanoms: These are little treats.  There are many different kinds including savory with chives or corn.  We generally eat the sweet ones that look like tablespoons filled with coconut milk, browned.  These are ready when they are somewhat set (but still a little jiggly).

·      Donuts:  Little ones that are drizzled with sweetened condensed milk or a pistachio pudding like sauce.

Get on over here and try some of these out!